Fly Fishing Tailwaters - Part 4 - Rigging 2

 

 

 

 

 

A fly with a 3/32" tungsten bead is ideal for the top fly. A #10 red San Juan Worm or a #14 Pink Scud is a great all-around choice. If you tie a spark plug on your tippet to get the flies to the bottom, it will hang and slow the flies. Enough weight to get the flies down and not so much as to hang the bottom all the time is the solution. Tungsten beads are a great solution when using a two-fly rig in moderate moving water, but keep a supply of split shot for heavier current.

Strike indicators are very useful, particularly when fishing uniformly moving currents with small nymphs. When a trout takes a small fly, he's not going to call his mom and tell her what a prize he just found. Instead he's going to either eat it or expel it with little fanfare and will not often move after taking it. This action by the trout will often only cause the indicator to stutter for a moment. Without a strike indicator, many subtle strikes will be missed. Position your strike indicator at two times the water depth. Besides drag, positioning the indicator at merely the water depth is the most common mistake fly fishers make. The flies do not hang perpendicular to your indicator, but rather the current and different water velocities at the surface and the bottom cause the line to arc. The water velocity at the bottom is less because structure slows the current, tumbling the water and anything drifting along the bottom. This tends to lift the flies off the bottom, and then they drift over the heads of the fish you are tying to catch.

Because you are using a minimum amount of weight to get the flies down to the sweet spot, thus better mimicking the naturals, it takes longer to get them from the surface to the bottom. An up-stream cast is necessary, followed by a good mend (see above). If you are fishing a tight line, you are likely dragging your flies.

All photos and text Trapper Badovinac. Any use without written permission from the author is illegal.
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